All of our marble machines run on 3 volts. However, if you want to slow it down, you can replace one AA battery with a "Dummy Battery", or you can use a wire to bridge the connection in the battery holder.
Marble Machines are printed in PLA. That is a type of plastic that will get bendy at 50 °C (122 °F). Therefore they should not be placed on top of a radiator or anywhere close to a heating source. A car is a big no-no as well.
It is also advisable to not put them in direct sunlight or the colors might fade over time.
Yes, we sell to most countries outside of the Netherlands. Take a look at our shipping policy.
All our prices are in USD however, customers can easily convert
pricing on our website using our currency conversion calculator. Whilst
customers can see our pricing in their local currency, prices will be
converted back to USA Currency (USD) at checkout.
Customers outside of the European Union may be subject to import taxes
and customs duties (VAT) levied by your local customs office, once the
order reaches the destination country.
These additional fees for customs clearance must be
fulfilled by the recipient; Out Of Marbles has no control over these
charges, nor can we predict what they may be.
Customs policies vary widely from country to country; you should
contact your local customs office for more information. When customs
clearance procedures are required, it may cause delays beyond our
All slicers should open .3mf files by simply dragging the file into the slicer
Why are we using .3mf files?
STL format is more than 30 years old. 3D printing technology has advanced and offers features and capabilities that STL was never developed to translate. For example, STL files describe only the surface geometry of a three-dimensional object without any representation of color, texture or other common CAD model attributes. It does not save mesh topology, which can lead to file sizes larger than can be supported by the 3D printer, and it can introduce roundness errors, which will usually result in a 3D print failure.
Please click here and download the Test Fit model: Test Fit.3mf
Print "Test Fit.3mf" with normal settings at 0.2 or 0.3mm layer height. These parts have small tolerances between them and there are 2 sized rings. First place the widerring all the way onto the axle. It should not move or rotate on its own, It should stay in place with a tight friction fit.
Then take the narrower ring and also place it on the axle. The narrower ring should be able to move/rotate freely, but still be snugly on the axle. This narrow test ring represents the wheel later on, so it should turn freely. To make them fit, you can also lightly sand if there are any imperfections from 3d printing on the axle.
You may need to calibrate your 3D printer’s extrusion multiplier to get the correct fit. If you are having trouble getting a correct fit, consider using “horizontal size compensation”. This setting controls how many millimeters the features printed will be enlarged or shrunk by. If the fit is too tight, try -0.1mm compensation, if it's still too tight, try -0.2mm, etc.
In PrusaSlicer this can be found under Print settings -> Advanced -> XY Size Compensation.
In Simplify3D open your Process settings, click “Show advanced” to show all the settings, click the tab labeled “Other” and then find Horizontal Size Compensation.
In Cura the setting is called "Horizontal Expansion"
If it is relatively close, then you can also probably get away with leaving your printer settings as they are, but then you will have to sand more.
Use supplied gcode files at your own risk. We are not responsible for any damage that might happen as a result of using the supplied gcode files.
We currently supply two sets of GCODE files. One set is meant for PRUSA MINI & MINI+ and the other is meant for PRUSA MK3S & MK3S+
ONLY USE THESE GCODE FILES IF YOU HAVE ORIGINAL PRINTERS LISTED ABOVE.
IF YOU HAVE ANY OTHER PRINTER, SLICE THE FILES YOURSELF OR YOU MIGHT DAMAGE YOUR PRINTER!
(We use PLA Extrafill from Filamentum)
The settings for this gcode files are:
First layer extruder temperature: 215
Other layers extruder temperature: 210
Bed temperature: 60
Variable layer heights are turned on where needed
(if you dont like these settings, then please slice the parts yourself. With these settings and our filament brand, we get near 100% success rate on our print farm and the best combination of time versus beauty of the prints)
If prusa mini gcode is missing for any model, it means its too big for 180mm bed size.
Chain should be at just the right tension for the machine to run smoothly. Too loose and the chain will drag on other pieces and marbles might fall out of the buckets. Too tight and the motor will have to work needlessly harder than it would otherwise and might break down much faster.
Solution is to either scale up or down the chain links.
You should scale a few chain links up by 102% or down 98% in X direction (length wise). Then print them and replace a few and you will see immediate improvements. And just repeat this step until it runs smoothly.
Also I suggest buying Silicone Spray. It is similar to WD-40, but that is not silicone spray, so you shouldnt use that. You should buy silicone spray instead, and spray it on the gears and chain. It acts as lubricant for plastic.
Your base is most likely lifting up from the table. You can test that by pushing down on the base pieces and if you see the movement, that is the cause then.
To fix it, unscrew the 3 bolts at the base. You need to unscrew each of them until the two bases become just slightly loose. This should bring both base pieces back down flat on the table and align the path at the top.
First, are you sure that you printed it with 100% infill? it requires 100% infill because steel marbles are heavier than plastic.
If it is still not working properly then It can be down to a few things:
Is the tipper moving smoothly? move it by hand and it shouldn't have any resistance and scrape on anything. If it does, lightly sand the touching parts.
if its still not working properly, then observe which side of the tipper is causing problems. For example, if the tipper won't properly dump when 4th marble comes on, the left side is too heavy. if however, it dumps prematurely, then the right side is too heavy. I suggest using the dremel and slowly sanding down the heavy side. I would only dremel it from behind, so that sanding is not visible from the front. Do small increments and keep checking constantly to not miss the sweet spot and over grind/sand it.
- All M3 nut holes are slightly larger for easier nut insertion
- Base Left: Made it easier to insert the M3 nut from the bottom
- Base Right: Made it easier to insert the M3 nut from the bottom
- Base Mid: Made it easier to insert the M3 bolt from the bottom
- Base Mid: Made it easier to tighten on/off switch
- Base Mid & Base Left: Pillars where the wheel sits on, are now less round for easier printing (45 degree overhang)
- Path from Flip Flop to Split: It should be easier to insert m3 nut
- Path from Tipper: Made slightly more support for the path. I will need to revisit it in the future and change it completely.
- Fixed the Split so that it is more balanced now
- Added Prusa MK3s Gcode files
- End-stop was added to holes where axles are inserted
- Sligthly bigger hole where axles are inserted
- Split has slightly bigger hole
- Split Walls now has a guard for easier alignment of the path
- Path towards split now has better design for nut insertion
- Flip Flop Walls now has a guard for easier alignment of the path
- Greatly simplified the required hardware. Following fasteners were removed:
- M3x10 and M3x12 bolts
- Square M3 nuts
- 608 ball bearings
- Pegs where the modules sit on, are now a bit smaller for easier module placement
- Flip Flop has more tolerance at the peg
- Wheel big had holes adjusted, so that marbles will go in and out easier
- Path From Spiral: guardrails are now higher because marbles sometimes fell out
- Ground Left: Small modification to accept the new spiral path
- Path From Tipper: extended by another 0.5mm
- Path From Spiral: made it more curvy and also made wider base underneath, so it now prints without brim
- Ground Left: Small modification to accept new spiral path
- Ground Left: Path leading towards small feeder has slightly bigger curvature now
- Wheel Big: Higher hole angle so marbles go out faster now
- Ground Mid: Path from tipper is extended by 1mm
- Ground Mid: Place for battery holder is slightly larger
- Ground Mid: On/off Switch hole is slightly larger and more indented now to accommodate shorter switches
- Ground Mid: Motor wire hole is slightly larger
- Added new module "Brains"
- Added new module "Ring Of Fire"
- "Small Wheel" had its holes shortened a bit to match the holes of the Big wheel
- Redesigned the Flip Flop and Split. Now they have much smaller contact area so they turn more freely
- Added a new pachinko element that can be placed to the edge
- Path to the small feeder is now rounder with less sharp first corner
- All 3 Paths leading up to the modules had their diameter lowered from 10mm to 8mm so that module alignment has some wiggle room
- Paths on Ground Mid were made a bit higher, because occasionally marbles would fall out
- I have removed modifiers in prusaslicer because they were causing a conflict with other slicers
- "Ground Left" had its path modified towards the small feeder, it now has more of a curve to it
- The following modules were redesigned to use fewer parts for easier assembly: Vortex, 3 Funnels and Spiralicious
- Vortex module now also has off center pegs, to make it impossible to assemble it incorrectly
- Ground pieces now have fillet applied to them, to help with parts buckling up on the build plate
- New module "Pachinko". You can print different elements and place them however you want on the pegs. Come to Discord channel if you have suggestions for new elements or modules.
- Path from Tipper is now more secure and stays in place better
- Spiralicious module now prints one hour faster
- Ground mid now has more space where the nut for on/off switch goes
- This is a major version with a lot of quality of life upgrades, therefore new pieces are mostly incompatible with previous versions.
- A lot of parts were merged together to improve assembly and printing experience. Parts count went from 28 to 22
- Pegs into which modules snap into are a bit smaller now so that modules snap on more nicely
- Holes into which "Out Of Marbles" logo is snapped in, are a bit bigger
- Filet was applied to ground pieces to improve bowing of ground pieces upwards when they are bolted together. Now there should be zero bowing issues.
- Tipper paths were completely redesigned and now there is zero post-processing required to get the paths aligned
- Path from Spiral was cut into two pieces so that some of it prints in place
- Guard Rails for wheels were connected together so that it is now one piece and a bit more sturdy
- Both wheels had hole angles adjusted slightly so that marbles roll out easier
- Enlarged Donkey King module entry point
- Fixed slicing settings so ground left has variable layer height at the top
- Made wheel axle longer so it matches the through holes now
- Fixed the Tipper.mk3 not having 100% infill
- Both holes for wheel axle are through holes now, for easier accessibility
- I also made a small 0.5 degrees draft on ground parts in an attempt to remove upward buckling
- Modified the "Vortex" module. (Before there was a chance of fail print at around 14 hours of print time)
- I have made two versions of the Vortex module. Print either one you want, I recommend the second version. The first version is printed as a whole and the second version is split into two parts.
- You can find the first version Vortex in the “Obsolete" folder. Here are the changes: Rotated the "Vortex", so that it is aligned with the movement of the Z bed axis for more stability. I also enlarged the brim from 5 to 12mm.
- Second recommended version: It is now split into 2 parts and print time is 1 hour shorter. It should also have a 100% success chance of completing it.
- Made the back hole between Ground Mid and Ground Right slightly larger so that bolt can be inserted more easily
v1.6 - Added a lip to the left tower to more easily secure the top most bridge section
- Added Prusa MINI Gcode files
v1.5 - Added Prusa MK3s Gcode files
v1.4 - Added no hole version again for people that have problems with right tower falling down during printing. You will find it in "Optional" folder
v1.3 - Raised the guardrail on the second turn by 1 milimeter, because marbles would sometimes fly off when the module is used on "the double screw"
v1.2 - Someone still reported right tower falling over during printing, so now it is super beefed up :)
- Removed the no hole version now
v1.1 - A few people had problems with right tower being knocked over, so now the base of it is reinforced. They got knocked over because of the holes in the top support path. Now you have a choice of two versions. Hexagon holes, which are easier to print than round holes, or no holes at all.
Yes you certainly can. However there are a few things to note.
For example, if you buy 6V 30 rpm motor. The lifting mechanisms will go slightly faster, because yours would be 30rpm and I use and test for 20 rpm motors. It would still work without problems, however you will need bigger battery holder for 4x1.5V batteries to reach the rated 6V.
Another option is that you check the specifications for your motor and see what Voltage is the minimum. If its 6V, then you need to use 4x1.5V batteries. If however it is 3V minimum, then you can use 2x1.5V batteries and the motor will turn at half the speed, in this case it would go from 30rpm to 15rpm.
Also some N20 motors have longer gearboxes. I only use 10mm long ones. Some models however are 12.5mm long. In 95% of the cases these will still work, but things would be slightly missaligned.
I wouldn't suggest using more than 50rpm motors. Currently anything past 30rpm was not tested by us..
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